Blog - Care and Tips

🥣 What I Feed My Parrots — LC Birds & Pets Feeding Guidelines

Feeding your parrot correctly is one of the most important responsibilities as a bird owner. A poor diet is often the root cause of many health issues in parrots, from feather plucking and self-mutilation to early death due to fatty liver disease or malnutrition.

At LC Birds & Pets, I don’t just sell food — I feed it too. I raise and hand-rear parrots myself, so I understand what they truly need to live long, healthy lives. Here’s an inside look at how I feed my birds every day, including quantities, nutritional value, and tips for beginners.


🕗 Feeding Schedule: Morning is Main Meal Time

As the saying goes, “The early bird catches the worm.” That’s why I serve my birds’ main meal in the morning, when they are alert and hungry. In nature, wild parrots spend the day flying from place to place in search of food — but caged parrots don’t get that kind of exercise. That means we have to be careful not to overfeed, especially with fatty foods.

I focus on small to medium-sized parrots, so the quantities I feed are based on their size:

  • Medium parrots (like African Greys, Ringnecks, etc.):
    🐦 1/3 cup of Riverfood’s Parrot Cook Mix per bird

  • Small parrots (like Lovebirds, Cockatiels, etc.):
    🐦 1/6 to 1/5 cup of Cook Mix per bird

Note: Larger birds, like Macaws, need bigger portions and higher-fat diets. But Eclectus parrots and other medium birds are prone to fatty liver disease, so it’s important to limit fatty seeds like sunflower.

If your birds are housed in large aviaries with plenty of flying space, you can also add sprouted seeds in the evening as a second meal — in the same quantity as the morning cook mix.


🫘 What’s in the Parrot Cook Mix?

I use Riverfood’s Parrot Cook Mix, a pre-mixed blend of healthy grains and legumes. It includes:

  • Corn – High in carbs, fiber, and antioxidants (lutein & zeaxanthin), plus vitamins A, B & C

  • Peas – Rich in vitamins A, C, K, and B-complex, and minerals like iron & magnesium

  • Chickpeas – Full of protein, fiber, iron, folate, and bone-supporting calcium & phosphorus

  • Lentils – High in protein and prebiotics; also contains iron, folate, and potassium

  • Wheat – Provides energy (carbs), B vitamins, iron, magnesium, and zinc

  • Buckwheat – A powerhouse of flavonoids, complex carbs, and protein

Each ingredient contributes important vitamins, minerals, and natural fiber to support healthy digestion, feather condition, and energy levels.


Dry Food and Why I Avoid It

I don’t feed dry food (like pellets) as a regular part of my birds’ diet. However, when I go on holiday and need someone else to feed them, I prepare an emergency mix:

  • AVI Plus Parrot Maintenance Pellets

  • Mixed 50/50 with AVI Plus Delight Mynah Pellets
    This mix can be fed ad-lib (free access) for a short period and ensures basic nutrition in my absence.

Always, fresh clean water must be available, regardless of what food is given.


🧬 Supplements – What and When

Because my cook mix already includes many natural vitamins and minerals, I don’t use supplements regularly. However, I do recommend adding:

➡️ 1/4 teaspoon of Avizon Nature’s Green
To each 1/3 cup of Cook Mix during moulting season or times of stress.

Nature’s Green is a superfood blend that includes Spirulina and seaweed, rich in:

  • Protein

  • Vitamins A, D, and E

  • Essential fatty acids
    It helps promote healthy feather regrowth and boosts the immune system.


🐣 Beginner’s Advice: Getting Started with Proper Feeding

  • Start feeding a balanced diet immediately. Don’t delay — a good diet means a healthy bird.

  • Cook in bulk: You can prepare a week’s worth of Riverfood’s Cook Mix and freeze it in portions. Just take out what you need the night before to defrost.

  • Sprouted seeds for evening: Make sure your seed mix sprouts within 24–48 hours. If it doesn’t sprout, it has no nutritional value.

  • Transitioning from a seed diet?

    • Start with 50% Cook Mix + 50% sprouted sunflower seeds for one week

    • Gradually reduce sunflower until your parrot eats only the Cook Mix

2. The Hidden Danger of Seed-Only Diets (for Parrots)

A common but outdated belief is that feeding parrots a seed mix — especially sunflower seeds — is a complete and natural diet. While seeds can form a small part of a healthy feeding routine, a seed-only diet is one of the leading causes of poor health, feather destruction, and shortened lifespan in parrots.

What’s Really in Sunflower Seeds?

Sunflower seeds contain:

  • High levels of fat, especially polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats

  • Moderate protein, important for growth and feather condition

  • Some vitamins and minerals, including vitamin E, B vitamins, magnesium, zinc, and iron

  • Fiber, which helps with digestion

  • Fatty acids like oleic and linoleic acid, which support basic health

While this sounds good on paper, sunflower seeds lack two of the most critical nutrients for parrots: vitamin A and calcium.

Why Vitamin A and Calcium Matter

  • Vitamin A is essential for maintaining healthy skin, eyes, feathers, and the immune system. A deficiency can lead to:

    • Respiratory infections

    • Sinus blockages

    • Poor feather quality

    • Eye swelling and infections

  • Calcium is vital for:

    • Strong bones and beaks

    • Egg production in female parrots (yes, even pets still lay eggs by nature!)

    • Healthy nerve and muscle function

When calcium is missing from the diet, the bird’s body starts to “borrow” it from bones and other tissues — a process that can lead to brittle bones, egg-binding, neurological issues, and even sudden death.

Malnutrition and a Weakened Immune System

Seed-only diets are often deficient in:

  • Vitamins A, D, and K

  • Calcium and iodine

This combination of shortages results in a weakened immune system, leaving your bird more vulnerable to:

  • Infections

  • Feather plucking

  • Organ failure

  • Hormonal imbalances

  • Goiter (swelling in the throat due to iodine deficiency)

The Truth About Commercial Bird Seeds

Here’s a shocking but true fact: the best-grade sunflower seeds are sold for human consumption. What’s left — the lowest quality or “scrap” seed — is packaged as pet food.

These seeds are usually:

  • Heat treated to kill pests and prevent germination (which also kills most nutrients)

  • Stored poorly, leading to mold or insect contamination

  • Low in digestibility, due to denatured proteins from processing

Once heat-treated and stripped of germination potential, these seeds lose much of their nutritional value. Feeding this kind of “food” every day is not much better than offering your parrot a handful of sand.

3. Safe Fruits & Vegetables vs. Toxic Foods – What Parrots Can and Can’t Eat

Parrots love to eat with their beaks and their eyes — and offering colourful fresh fruits and vegetables can add fun, enrichment, and serious health benefits to their diet. But not all produce is bird-safe, and giving the wrong thing — even just once — can cause poisoning or long-term damage.

Why Fresh Produce Matters

Fresh fruits and vegetables are rich in:

  • Vitamins (especially A, C, and K)

  • Natural antioxidants

  • Hydration (high water content)

  • Dietary fibre, supporting digestion and gut health

  • Variety — mental stimulation and natural foraging behavior

Adding a range of produce improves your parrot’s health, mood, and feather condition.

The Problem with Most Online Lists

Many websites list dozens — even hundreds — of fruits and vegetables from all over the world. But here in Namibia, many of those items are hard to find, too expensive, or simply unavailable. That’s why I’ve created a Namibian-specific placard (Click to download) that only includes common fruits and vegetables available locally.

✅ Safe, Common Produce in Namibia

Here are just a few examples you can usually find in local shops or markets:

Safe Fruits:

  • Apples (no seeds)

  • Bananas

  • Blueberries

  • Grapes (limit due to sugar)

  • Mango (no skin or pit)

  • Papaya

  • Pawpaw

  • Pomegranate (in moderation)

  • Watermelon

Safe Vegetables:

  • Carrots

  • Sweet potato (cooked or raw in small amounts)

  • Butternut (cooked or grated raw)

  • Baby marrow (zucchini)

  • Pumpkin

  • Bell pepper

  • Broccoli

  • Green beans

Always wash thoroughly, remove any seeds, pits, or skins that may be harmful, and offer fresh produce in moderation alongside a balanced cooked or sprouted base diet.

❌ Toxic Foods to Avoid Completely

  • Avocado – one of the most dangerous foods for birds; contains persin, which can cause heart failure.

  • Onion and garlic – damage red blood cells and cause digestive problems.

  • Tomato (especially raw skin or leaves) – acidic and potentially harmful.

  • Chocolate, caffeine, and alcohol – extremely toxic.

  • Apple seeds, pear seeds, and other fruit pits – contain cyanide-like compounds.

  • Rhubarb – contains oxalic acid, harmful to kidneys.

If you’re ever unsure about a fruit or vegetable, don’t guess — it’s safer to leave it out.

4. Supplements – When and How to Use Them Wisely

When it comes to parrots, supplements should never be a daily shortcut to cover up a poor diet. They are best used as a support tool in specific situations, such as during molting, breeding, or recovery from illness. A well-balanced daily diet — like Riverfood’s Parrot Cook Mix, complemented with fresh produce — already provides most of the essential nutrients birds need to thrive.

When Supplements Are Helpful:

  • Molting Season: During molting, feathers are replaced and nutrient demands increase. I recommend adding Avizon Nature’s Green — a natural superfood blend that includes spirulina and seaweed — to your birds’ food. Just ½ teaspoon mixed into their ⅓ cup morning meal supports healthy feather regrowth with added vitamins A, D, and E, along with essential fatty acids and protein.

  • Breeding Season: For breeders, it’s safe to supplement with AVI-Plus Calcium — but dosage matters. Excess calcium can result in overly hard eggshells, which may prevent chicks from hatching properly due to weak hatching muscles. Carefully calculate the calcium already present in your daily food before adding more. For pet birds that occasionally lay unfertile eggs, a small calcium boost is generally not a concern.

  • Winter Immune Boost: Though parrots are resilient to cold due to their body temperature regulation and insulating feathers, the dry winter air can slightly suppress immunity. AVI-Plus offers a twin pack vitamin and mineral boost you can add to their food — just make sure not to overdo it.


Why Too Much Is Dangerous: Understanding Supplement Overdose

While supplements may seem harmless, over-supplementation can lead to serious health problems:

Fat-Soluble Vitamin Toxicity (Vitamins A, D, E, K):

These accumulate in the liver and fatty tissues, and can result in:

  • Liver damage

  • Kidney dysfunction (like gout)

  • Gastrointestinal upset

  • Neurological symptoms

Calcium Overload:

  • Can cause calcium deposits in kidneys and soft tissues

  • May lead to kidney failure or urinary complications

Behavioral & Digestive Reactions:

  • Nervousness, aggression, overstimulation

  • Vomiting, diarrhea (sometimes with blood), lethargy

  • Feather plucking or mood swings

Other Minerals:

  • Iron overdose, for instance, can lead to constipation, vomiting, and in severe cases, iron storage disease (hemochromatosis).

Some parrot species, like Macaws, are especially sensitive to vitamin D and other fat-soluble vitamins, so species-specific needs must be taken seriously. Additionally, Eclectus parrots have a very long digestive tract, which means they absorb nearly all the nutrients in the food they consume. As a result, adding supplements to their diet — especially without proper need — can lead to dangerous overdoses, making it one of the worst decisions an owner can make for this species. Always consult an avian vet before introducing supplements to Eclectus parrots in particular.


Final Advice:

  • Rescue birds recovering from seed-only diets and suffering issues like aggression or feather plucking may benefit from short-term supplementation, but only after consulting an avian vet.

  • A thorough check-up is always the best way to determine deficiencies and create a proper feeding and supplementation plan.

  • And always remember: Feeding a proper diet is much more cost-effective than trying to fix a broken one with pills and powders.

🐣🐣 Feeding Hand-Reared Chicks

Hand-rearing a baby bird is one of the most rewarding, but also one of the most delicate, responsibilities a bird keeper can take on. A chick’s long-term health and tameness start with how it’s fed in its early days. Mistakes in feeding, especially in the early weeks, can lead to stunted growth, infections, or even death. For beginner keepers, it’s safer to start from 2 weeks onward, once the chick has grown stronger and can better regulate its temperature and digestion.


🌟

Feeding Schedule (for Parrots)

Important Note: For beginner keepers, it’s safer to start hand-feeding chicks from 2 weeks old, once the chick has grown stronger and can better regulate its temperature and digestion.

🐣 Chick Age⏱️ Feeding FrequencyPreferred Times
2–4 weeks oldEvery 4 hours07:00, 11:00, 15:00, 19:00
4+ weeks oldEvery 6 hours07:00, 13:00, 19:00

🌙 Nighttime Crop Emptying:
Ensure the crop fully empties once every 24 hours, typically during the 12-hour nighttime break (19:00 to 07:00). This helps prevent bacterial overgrowth and digestive complications.


🛋️ Formula Preparation

The only commercial hand-rearing formula currently available in Namibia is AVI Plus Phase 2 Handrearing Formula.

  • Mix 7.5ml of powder with 22–24ml of hot water.

  • This consistency is suitable for all ages, as young chicks receive all their hydration from formula alone.

  • Never place a bowl of water in with young chicks – they can drown easily and they do not know how to drink yet.

Ideal formula temperature: 37°C to 40°C
Check temperature by dropping a small amount on the inside of your wrist. It should feel warm but not hot.

  • Overheated formula can burn the crop.

  • Cold formula can cause slow digestion and lead to sour crop.

Always prepare fresh formula for each feeding. Discard leftovers after every meal to prevent bacteria buildup.


🩼 How to Feed

Use a syringe with a plastic plunger or a small feeding spoon. Hold the chick in a natural upright position, supporting its body gently.

  • Feed slowly and carefully

  • Let the chick bob and swallow naturally

  • Do not squirt food forcefully into the beak

  • Watch for signs of distress such as gasping, choking, or bubbling at the nostrils

Avoid aspiration by keeping the chick upright and allowing it to control the swallowing.


🌿 Transition to Solid Food

At around 5–6 weeks, chicks will begin nibbling at soft food:

  • Offer soaked pellets, finely chopped fruits and vegetables, and sprouted seeds

  • Continue hand-feeding until the chick eats solid food confidently for 7 consecutive days

  • Weaning must be gradual and never forced

Each bird weans at its own pace. Rushing can lead to weight loss and long-term eating issues.


⚖️ Keep Records

Weigh your chick every morning before feeding on a digital kitchen scale.

  • Track weight daily to monitor growth

  • Log crop emptying, stool consistency, and feeding behavior

Sudden weight loss or feeding refusal is a red flag for illness.


⚠️ Final Tips & Monitoring Chick Health

  • Watch for signs of illness: crop not emptying, unusual droppings, lethargy, or no weight gain

  • Maintain strict hygiene: always use clean utensils and hands

  • Never re-use leftover food

  • Keep chicks warm but not overheated

  • Consult an avian vet immediately if something seems wrong

💭 Tips for Beginners

  • Don’t attempt hand-rearing if you are unsure – rather find an experienced person to guide you

  • Avoid temperature shocks by keeping the chick in a warm, stable environment

  • Never feed a chick that is cold – warm it up gently first

  • Do not overfeed – bloated chicks can develop digestive issues

📅 Final Note

Hand-rearing is an emotional and time-consuming job, but with a proper feeding routine, care, and a clean environment, the result is a healthy, tame and happy bird. Every feeding is a bonding opportunity that shapes your chick’s future behavior, health, and trust in humans. When in doubt, always reach out for support – your chick’s life may depend on it.